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Re: Heat tensioning of guided gangsaws

From: Rich Carey
Categories: Benching
Date: 12 Sep 1999
Time: 19:24:41
Remote Name:


In reply to sawdoc: I haven't got everything I need to get started heat tensioning yet, but hopefully in a couple more weeks. I've heard when you heat tension bandsaws you just put spots of heat along the edge. I don't think that would work on a circle saw because it would do as you say and make the saw wavey. I think a little lower heat all the way around the rim would contract it, making the rim shorter than the rest of the saw, which is what tension really is. I have seen saws in the past that have a slight brown burn all the way around the rim that shows excellent tension through out the body, but has to much drop. Usually one roll around the rim tightens the saw up so you only get a little drop, but when you check the saw for reverse tension, the straight egde rolls from the eye to the rim. Which is exactly what I am trying to do. Thanks for the feedback and I will keep you informed.

Need info for correct trim saws...

From: Wayne Comeau
Categories: Circular Saws
Date: 27 Jan 2000
Time: 22:05:53
Remote Name:


I've been working as head filer in a softwood sawmill in Nova Scotia Canada for just over a year now, and we're having trouble with our planing mill trim saws. They leave a lot of "hairs" on the wood as they cut. We're running 18 inch, .134 thou plate, 100 tooth, climb cut, carbide saws. I don't know if the hook angle is wrong but most of them are around 5 degrees positive. I changed the top bevel angle to 20 degrees and it seemd to help a bit but they're not as smooth as I know they could be. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.