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ANSWERING WAYNE BUSBY

From: STEPHEN MACLEOD IN NOVA SCOTIA
Categories: Horizontal Bands
Date: 19 Nov 1999
Time: 20:43:49
Remote Name: 142.176.35.117

Comments

WAYNE IF YOU MAKE SURE YOU RUN YOUR SAW GULLET 1/8 OFF THE WHEEL AND HAVE YOUR GUILDS ON STRAIGHT LINE WITH YOUR WHEELS THIS WILL HELP.BUT IT,S NOT THE CURE .YOU MUST REPLACE THE DEISEL WITH AN OIL AIR MIXTURE {PREFER AW46} NOW YOUR READY TO GO BACK TO YOUR FILING ROOM

YOUR 40 FOOT GAUGE IS THE CORRECT ONE I PREFER A 38 .BUT YOU CANNOT RUN TIRE LINE FRONT OR BACK IN BANDS SAWS TRY BREAKING DOWN YOUR SAW TO GET RID OF THE TIRE. SHOW A LITTLE LIGHT UNDER WITH YOUR GAUGE AND USE ROUGHLY 5 POUNDS OF PRESSURE SOMETIMES TIP YOUR GAUGE FOR BETTER LOOK BUT NOT TOO MUCH

LAST OFF ALL THERE IS A PRODUCT CALLED DYNABRADE{ASK ARNSTRONG} IT IS FOR SMOOTHING OUT THE GULLET THE BEST RESULTS I,VE FOUND IS USING AN 11/16 DEEP GULLET WIHT WIDE ROUND CURVE THEN PASS THE DYNABRADE OVER LIGHTLY 5 TO 6 TIMES FOR EACH GULLET

THIS IS WHAT I DO AND MOST OF MY SAWS I WEAR OUT BUT EVERYBODY HAS BAD LUCK SOMETIMES GOOD LUCK ! IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS OR ANYTHING PLEASE ASK

STEPHEN

RE: Carbide Breakage

From: bntn6@netalpha.net
Categories: Tooth Materials & Brazing
Date: 29 Feb 2000
Time: 20:05:04
Remote Name: 192.216.28.25

Comments

I can certainly understand how frustrating tooth breakage can be. I have been dealing with this issue off and on for twenty years. It can be difficult to determine the cause without visual inspection of the saws. Based on the given information it sounds like a possible cause could be the rate which the tip cools off. Try removing the torch in a different fashion. TEST THIS ACTION ON A NEW SAW ONLY! There could be a condition present that cannot be repaired without replacing the saws. This is why I want you to test on a new blade only. Place the tips in the saw as normal, but draw the flame away more slowly to about five to six inches away from the tip. Hold the flame on the tip at this distance for ten seconds allowing the heat to move down into the plate a little bit. Then remove the flame and move to the next tip. Mark this saw and track it for a few daays to see if this helps. The main point is to allow the 'cold' plate to warm up enough that it doesn't cause the tip to cool off too rapidly. Please let me know if this helps. Is there any damage to the saw plate material? Is the silver solder still on the saw steel where the carbide is missing? If you can give me more details, I may be able to share more information.