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Re: band wheels

Date: 30 Dec 2002
Time: 12:04:04
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As with everyone else there are many who say flat and many who say crowned wheels work best.The main problem is that the saw must be benched according to the mill and not the other way around.If a guy has used a crowned wheel for a while then changes to flat he will indeed have trouble if he continues to bench his saws as if he were still running a crowned wheel.The flat wheel may tend to track back if the tires are not made tighter (sometimes called a fast tireline).Saws for a flat wheel should have the following:when you look at tension ,the tires should show when little or no downward pressure is applied to the tension gauge,then pick up the saw and the front edge as well as the back should drop down away from the gauge showing light on the outside of the tires.This will give the saw a foot hold on the wheel and track properly.The overhang should still be the standard 1/4 inch or so when not in the cut.The amount of hook in your tooth will take the saw into the cant as it begins to cut.It's easy set or track the saw and not take into consideration the forward movement during log entry and have too much saw out over the wheel.And just as easy to have the saw ride back on the wheel only to have it run back onto the wheel and mess up your swage corners .I like flat wheels,flat saws and strong tirelines with only enough body tension to hold the saw tight and not crack.I use a 45'tension,a .010 in 3 ft back on a 36'6" twin and have very little trouble with saws going back or forward and we cut at a very fast clip too. Hope that helps...